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American mountain range along North Carolina/Tennessee border

Great Smoky Mountains
Clifftops4-7-07.jpg

The Smoky Mountains, viewed from atop Mount Le Conte, in Apr 2007
Highest point
Tiptop Clingmans Dome
Height half dozen,643 ft (two,025 chiliad)
Coordinates 35°33′46″Due north 83°29′55″Westward  /  35.56278°N 83.49861°Westward  / 35.56278; -83.49861 Coordinates: 35°33′46″Northward 83°29′55″W  /  35.56278°N 83.49861°W  / 35.56278; -83.49861
Geography

Appalachian map.svg

Appalachian Mountain system
Country United States
States Tennessee and North Carolina
Parent range Blue Ridge Mountains
Borders on Bald Mountains, Unicoi Mountains and Plott Balsams
Geology
Orogeny Alleghenian

The Nifty Smoky Mountains (Cherokee: ᎡᏆ ᏚᏧᏍᏚ ᏙᏓᎸ, Equa Dutsusdu Dodalv) are a mountain range rising along the Tennessee–North Carolina border in the southeastern United States. They are a subrange of the Appalachian Mountains, and form part of the Blue Ridge Physiographic Province. The range is sometimes called the Smoky Mountains and the name is normally shortened to the Smokies. The Keen Smokies are best known as the dwelling house of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which protects nearly of the range. The park was established in 1934, and, with over 11 one thousand thousand visits per year, it is the nigh visited national park in the Us.[1]

The Great Smokies are part of an International Biosphere Reserve. The range is home to an estimated 187,000 acres (76,000 ha) of old growth forest, constituting the largest such stand east of the Mississippi River.[2] [3] The cove hardwood forests in the range'southward lower elevations are among the almost diverse ecosystems in North America, and the Southern Appalachian spruce-fir forest that coats the range's upper elevations is the largest of its kind.[iv] The Great Smokies are likewise home to the densest black comport population in the Eastern United States and the most diverse salamander population exterior of the tropics.[five]

Along with the Biosphere reserve, the Swell Smokies have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The U.S. National Park Service preserves and maintains 78 structures within the national park that were one time part of the numerous small Appalachian communities scattered throughout the range's river valleys and coves. The park contains five celebrated districts and ix individual listings on the National Register of Historic Places.

The proper noun "Smoky" comes from the natural fog that often hangs over the range and presents as large smoke plumes from a distance. This fog is caused by the vegetation emitting volatile organic compounds, chemicals that accept a high vapor pressure and easily form vapors at normal temperature and pressure.[6]

Geography [edit]

The Great Smoky Mountains stretch from the Pigeon River in the northeast to the Little Tennessee River in the southeast. The northwestern half of the range gives way to a series of elongate ridges known as the "Foothills," the outermost of which include Chilhowee Mountain and English language Mountain. The range is roughly bounded on the s by the Tuckasegee River and to the southeast by Soco Creek and Jonathan Creek. The Great Smokies incorporate parts of Blount Canton, Sevier County, and Cocke Canton in Tennessee and Swain County and Haywood County in North Carolina.

The sources of several rivers are located in the Smokies, including the Little Dove River, the Oconaluftee River, and Little River. Streams in the Smokies are part of the Tennessee River watershed and are thus entirely west of the Eastern Continental Divide. The largest stream entirely inside the park is Abrams Creek, which rises in Cades Cove and empties into the Chilhowee Lake impoundment of the Little Tennessee River near Chilhowee Dam.

Other major streams include Hazel Creek and Hawkeye Creek in the southwest, Raven Fork near Oconaluftee, Cosby Creek well-nigh Cosby, and Roaring Fork near Gatlinburg. The Little Tennessee River passes through five impediments along the range's southwestern boundary, namely Tellico Lake, Chilhowee Lake, Calderwood Lake, Cheoah Lake, and Fontana Lake.

Notable peaks [edit]

The highest point in the Smokies is Clingmans Dome, which rises to an tiptop of 6,643 feet (2,025 m). The mountain is the highest in Tennessee and the third-highest in the Appalachian range. Clingmans Dome also has the range'due south highest topographical prominence at 4,503 feet (1,373 thousand). Mount Le Conte is the tallest (i.e., from immediate base of operations to summit) mountain in the range, rising 5,301 anxiety (ane,616 thou) from its base in Gatlinburg to its 6,593-foot (2,010 k) summit.

Mount Elevation Prominence General location Named after
Clingmans Dome vi,643 ft/2,025 thou iv,503 ft/1,373 k Central Smokies Thomas Lanier Clingman (1812–1897), surveyor
Mount Guyot 6,621 ft/ ii,018m ane,581 ft/482 thou Eastern Smokies Arnold Guyot (1807–1884), surveyor
Mount Le Conte 6,593 ft/two,010 thou 1,360 ft/415 m Central Smokies Joseph Le Conte or John Le Conte, scientists
Mount Chapman 6,431 ft/1,960 m 577 ft/176 chiliad Eastern Smokies David Chapman (1876–1944), park promoter
Old Blackness 6,360 ft/ane,939 m 170 ft/52 m Eastern Smokies Spruce-fir stand up at summit
Luftee Knob 6,215 ft/1,894 m 314 ft/96 one thousand Eastern Smokies Oconaluftee River
Mount Kephart 6,218 ft/1,895 m 657 ft/200 k Cardinal Smokies Horace Kephart (1862–1931), author
Mount Collins half-dozen,197 ft/1,888 m 465 ft/142 m Cardinal Smokies Robert Collins, mountain guide
Marks Knob 6,162 ft/1,878 1000 appx. 249 ft/76 thousand Eastern Smokies
Tricorner Knob six,145 ft/1,873 thousand 160 ft/48 yard Eastern Smokies Intersection of Balsam crest and Not bad Smokies crest
Mount Hardison 6,145 ft/1,873 m 134 ft/41 m Eastern Smokies James Archibald Hardison (1867–1930)
Andrews Bald 5,909 ft/1,801 m 160 ft/48 m Central Smokies possibly Andres Thompson, early settler
Mount Sterling five,842 ft/1,781 m 663 ft/202 m Eastern Smokies possibly atomic number 82 at mountain's base of operations mistaken for silver
Silers Bald 5,597 ft/i,706 grand 337 ft/102 m Western Smokies Jesse Siler, who used the mountain for grazing
Thunderhead Mountain five,528 ft/1,684 m 1087 ft/332 1000 Western Smokies abiding cloud embrace
Gregory Bald 4,949 ft/ane,508 m 1,107 ft/337 m Western Smokies Russell Gregory (1805–1863), Cades Cove resident
Mount Cammerer 4,928 ft/1,502 m 8 ft/2 g Eastern Smokies Arno B. Cammerer (1883–1941), NPS director
Chimney Tops 4,725 ft/ane,440m appx. 200 ft/61 m Central Smokies resemblance to cabin chimneys
Blanket Mountain four,607 ft/i,404 m appx. 500 ft/152 m Western Smokies blanket left atop mountain by surveyor Render Meigs for a reference indicate
Shuckstack 4,020 ft/one,225 thousand 300 ft/91 one thousand Western Smokies

Climate [edit]

The Smokies rise prominently above the surrounding low terrain. For example, Mount Le Conte (6,593 feet [2,010 one thousand]) rises more than a mile (1.vi km) to a higher place its base of operations. Because of their prominence, the Smokies receive a heavy almanac corporeality of precipitation. Annual precipitation amounts range from 50 to 80 in (1,300 to 2,000 mm),[7] and snow in the winter tin can be heavy, especially on the higher slopes.[8] For comparison, the surrounding terrain has annual precipitation of effectually 40 to fifty in (1,000 to 1,300 mm). Flash flooding frequently occurs afterward heavy pelting.[7]

In 2004, the remnants of Hurricane Frances caused major flooding, landslides, and high winds, which were soon followed by Hurricane Ivan, making the situation worse.[8] Other post-hurricanes, including Hurricane Hugo in 1989, have acquired like damage in the Smokies.

Equally for temperatures, the average temperature departure betwixt the mountains (Newfound Gap around 5,000 anxiety (1,500 m) MSL and the valleys (Park Headquarters around 1,600 feet (490 g) MSL in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is between 10 and 13 °F (half-dozen and 7 °C) with highs and between three and 6 °F (two and 3 °C) with lows. The difference between high temperatures is similar to the moist adiabatic lapse rate (3.3 degrees Fahrenheit per i,000 ft), while the smaller difference betwixt low temperatures is the result of frequent temperature inversions developing in the forenoon, specially during autumn.[9]

Strong damaging winds (80 to 100 mph (130 to 160 km/h), or sometimes greater) are observed a few times each twelvemonth around the Smoky Mountains during the cool season (October through April), as a result of a phenomenon known as mountain waves.[10] These mountain wave winds are strongest in a narrow area along the foothills, and can create extensive areas of fallen trees and roof harm, especially effectually Cades Cove in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Camp Creek community.[11] Potent winds created by mountain waves were a contributing gene with the devastating Gatlinburg fire on November 28, 2016 during the 2016 Swell Smoky Mountains wildfires.[12] Damaging winds can also be generated past strong thunderstorms, with tornadoes and potent thunderstorm complexes (too known as mesoscale convective systems) occasionally affecting the Smoky Mountains. [13]

The climate of Clingmans Dome is hemiboreal (Köppen Dfb, Trewartha Dcb [fourteen]). As with much of the southern Blueish Ridge, the area qualifies as function of the Appalachian Rainforest.[15] On the other manus, Gatlinburg's climate is four-season subtropical (Cfa) under Köppen (oceanic Do under Trewartha), typical of Tennessee.[fifteen]

Climate data for Clingmans Dome [xv]
Month Jan February Mar April May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov December Yr
Average high °F (°C) 35
(2) 		35
(2) 		39
(4) 		49
(nine) 		57
(14) 		63
(17) 		65
(18) 		64
(18) 		60
(xvi) 		53
(12) 		42
(half-dozen) 		37
(3) 		50
(ten)
Daily mean °F (°C) 27.0
(−2.8) 		26.5
(−3.1) 		31.v
(−0.3) 		41.5
(5.3) 		l.0
(10.0) 		56.0
(thirteen.3) 		59.0
(15.0) 		58.0
(14.4) 		53.five
(11.nine) 		45.5
(7.5) 		35.0
(1.7) 		29.0
(−i.seven) 		43.0
(vi.1)
Boilerplate low °F (°C) nineteen
(−7) 		18
(−8) 		24
(−iv) 		34
(1) 		43
(six) 		49
(9) 		53
(12) 		52
(11) 		47
(viii) 		38
(3) 		28
(−2) 		21
(−6) 		36
(2)
Boilerplate precipitation inches (mm) 7.0
(180) 		8.2
(210) 		8.ii
(210) 		six.5
(170) 		half-dozen.0
(150) 		6.9
(180) 		8.3
(210) 		vi.8
(170) 		v.i
(130) 		five.iv
(140) 		6.4
(160) 		seven.3
(190) 		82.1
(2,100)
Average snowfall inches (cm) eighteen
(46) 		xx
(51) 		26
(66) 		5
(13) 		trace 0
(0) 		0
(0) 		0
(0) 		trace 2
(5.1) 		5
(13) 		8
(twenty) 		84
(214.1)
Source: "Great Smoky Mountains". National Park Service. National Park Service. Retrieved November 25, 2020.
Climate information for Gatlinburg, Tennessee [15]
Calendar month Jan Feb Mar April May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Boilerplate high °F (°C) 51
(11) 		54
(12) 		61
(16) 		71
(22) 		79
(26) 		86
(xxx) 		88
(31) 		87
(31) 		83
(28) 		73
(23) 		61
(16) 		52
(eleven) 		71
(22)
Daily mean °F (°C) 39.v
(4.2) 		41.5
(5.3) 		47.five
(8.6) 		56.5
(thirteen.half-dozen) 		64.5
(18.1) 		72.0
(22.2) 		73.v
(23.ane) 		73.5
(23.1) 		69.0
(xx.vi) 		58.0
(14.iv) 		47.0
(8.iii) 		twoscore.0
(four.4) 		57.0
(xiii.9)
Average low °F (°C) 28
(−2) 		29
(−2) 		34
(1) 		42
(6) 		50
(10) 		58
(14) 		59
(15) 		60
(16) 		55
(13) 		43
(vi) 		33
(1) 		28
(−2) 		43
(6)
Average precipitation inches (mm) four.eight
(120) 		4.8
(120) 		5.3
(130) 		4.5
(110) 		4.five
(110) 		v.2
(130) 		v.vii
(140) 		5.3
(130) 		3.0
(76) 		three.1
(79) 		3.4
(86) 		4.v
(110) 		54.1
(one,341)
Boilerplate snowfall inches (cm) 2.3
(5.8) 		2.9
(7.4) 		trace 0
(0) 		0
(0) 		0
(0) 		0
(0) 		0
(0) 		0
(0) 		trace 0.7
(1.8) 		1.0
(2.5) 		half dozen.ix
(17.5)
Source: "Smashing Smoky Mountains". National Park Service. National Park Service. Retrieved November 25, 2020.

Geology [edit]

Almost of the rocks in the Great Smoky Mountains consist of Late Precambrian rocks that are office of a formation known as the Ocoee Supergroup. The Ocoee Supergroup consists primarily of slightly metamorphosed sandstones, phyllites, schists, and slate. Early Precambrian rocks, which include the oldest rocks in the Smokies, comprise the dominant rock type in the Raven Fork Valley (in the Oconaluftee valley) and lower Tuckasegee River between Cherokee and Bryson City. They consist primarily of metamorphic gneiss, granite, and schist. Cambrian sedimentary rocks are found amongst the outer reaches of the Foothills to the northwest and in limestone coves such equally Cades Cove.[sixteen]

The Precambrian gneiss and schists—the oldest rocks in the Smokies—formed over a billion years ago from the aggregating of marine sediments and igneous rock in a primordial ocean. In the Tardily Precambrian catamenia, this bounding main expanded, and the more recent Ocoee Supergroup rocks formed from accumulations of the eroding land mass onto the sea'south continental shelf.[17]

By the end of the Paleozoic era, the ancient bounding main had deposited a thick layer of marine sediments which left backside sedimentary rocks such as limestone. During the Ordovician menstruum, the North American and African plates collided, destroying the ancient sea and initiating the Alleghenian orogeny—the mountain-building epoch that created the Appalachian range. The Mesozoic era saw the rapid erosion of the softer sedimentary rocks from the new mountains, re-exposing the older Ocoee Supergroup formations.[17]

Around twenty,000 years ago, subarctic glaciers advanced southward across North America, and although they never reached the Smokies, the advancing glaciers led to colder hateful annual temperatures and an increment in precipitation throughout the range. Trees were unable to survive at the college elevations, and were replaced by tundra vegetation. Spruce-fir forests occupied the valleys and slopes below approximately 4,950 feet (1,510 m). The persistent freezing and thawing during this flow created the large blockfields that are often found at the base of large mountain slopes.[18]

Between 16,500 and 12,500 years ago, the glaciers to the north retreated and mean annual temperatures rose. The tundra vegetation disappeared, and the spruce-fir forests retreated to the highest elevations. Hardwood trees moved into the region from the littoral plains, replacing the bandbox-fir forests in the lower elevations. The temperatures continued warming until around 6,000 years ago, when they began to gradually grow cooler.[eighteen]

Flora [edit]

Heavy logging in the tardily 19th century and early on 20th century devastated much of the forests of the Smokies, simply the National Park Service estimates 187,000 acres (760 kmii) of old growth forest remains,[3] comprising the largest old growth stand up in the Eastern United States. Virtually of the forest is a mature 2nd-growth hardwood forest. The range's one,600 species of flowering plants include over 100 species of native copse and 100 species of native shrubs. The Swell Smokies are as well home to over 450 species of non-vascular plants, and 2,000 species of fungi.[xix] [20]

The forests of the Smokies are typically divided into three zones:

  • The cove hardwood forests in the stream valleys, coves, and lower mountain slopes
  • The northern hardwood forests on the higher mountain slopes
  • The spruce-fir or boreal forest at the very highest elevations

Appalachian balds—patches of land where trees are unexpectedly absent or sparse—are interspersed through the mid-to-upper elevations in the range. Balds include grassy balds, which are highland meadows covered primarily by thick grasses, and heath balds, which are dense thickets of rhododendron and mount laurel typically occurring on narrow ridges. Mixed oak-pine forests are found on dry out ridges, peculiarly on the south-facing North Carolina side of the range.[21] Stands dominated by the Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) are occasionally establish along streams and broad slopes in a higher place iii,500 anxiety (1,100 m).[22]

Cove hardwood forest [edit]

Cove hardwood forest along Cosby Creek

Cove hardwood forests, which are native to Southern Appalachia, are among the most diverse forest types in North America. The cove hardwood forests of the Smokies are by and large second-growth, although some 72,000 acres (290 km2) are nevertheless old-growth.[3] The Albright Grove along the Maddron Baldheaded Trail (betwixt Gatlinburg and Cosby) is an attainable sometime-growth woods with some of the oldest and tallest copse in the entire range.[23]

Over 130 species of copse are institute among the canopies of the cove hardwood forests in the Smokies. The dominant species include yellow birch (Betula alleghaniensis), basswood (Tilia americana), xanthous buckeye (Aesculus flava), tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera; commonly called "tulip poplar"), silverbells (Halesia carolina), sugar maple (Acer saccharum), cucumber magnolia (Magnolia acuminata), shagbark hickory (Carya ovata), Carolina hemlock (Tsuga caroliniana) and eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis).[24] The American chestnut (Castanea dentata), which was arguably the almost beloved tree of the range'south pre-park inhabitants, was killed off by the introduced Anecdote blight in the 1920s.

The understories of the cove hardwood forest contain dozens of species of shrubs and vines. Dominant species in the Smokies include the Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis), flowering dogwood (Cornus florida), Catawba rhododendron (Rhododendron catawbiense), mount laurel (Kalmia latifolia), and smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens).[25]

Northern hardwood woods [edit]

The autumn colors of the northern hardwood awning near Newfound Gap give mode to the night-green spruce-fir canopy as distance increases

The hateful annual temperatures in the college elevations in the Smokies are cool enough to support forest types more commonly found in the northern United States. The northern hardwood forests of the Smokies constitute the highest broad-leaved forest in the eastern United States.[26] About 28,600 acres (116 km2) of the northern hardwood forest are old-growth.[3]

In the Smokies, the northern hardwood canopies are dominated by yellow birch (Betula alleghaniensis) and American beech (Fagus grandifolia). White basswood (Tilia heterophylla), mount maple (Acer spicatum) and striped maple (Acer pensylvanicum), and xanthous buckeye (Aesculus flava) are also nowadays. The northern hardwood understory is home to diverse species such as coneflower, skunk goldenrod, Rugels ragwort, bloodroot, hydrangea, and several species of grasses and ferns.[27]

One unique community in the northern hardwoods of the Smokies is the beech gap, or beech orchard. Beech gaps consist of high mountain gaps that take been monopolized by beech copse. The beech trees are oft twisted and contorted by the high winds that occur in these gaps. Why other tree types such as the ruby-red spruce fail to encroach into the beech gaps is unknown.[28]

Spruce-fir forest [edit]

Spruce fir stand near the summit of Clingmans Dome

The bandbox-fir forest—too chosen the "boreal" or "Canadian" wood—is a relict of the ice ages, when mean almanac temperatures in the Smokies were besides cold to support a hardwood wood. While the ascension in temperatures between 12,500 and vi,000 years ago allowed the hardwoods to return, the spruce-fir forest has managed to survive on the harsh mountain tops, typically above 5,500 feet (1,700 k). Almost 10,600 acres (43 kmtwo) of the spruce-fir forest are old-growth.[three]

The spruce-fir forest consists primarily of 2 conifer species—blood-red bandbox (Picea rubens) and Fraser fir (Abies fraseri). The Fraser Firs, which are native to Southern Appalachia, once dominated elevations above vi,200 feet (1,900 yard) in the Not bad Smokies. Most of these firs were killed, however, by an infestation of the balsam wooly adelgid, which arrived in the Smokies in the early 1960s. Thus, crimson spruce is now the ascendant species in the range'southward bandbox-fir forest. Large stands of dead Fraser Firs remain atop Clingmans Dome and on the northwestern slopes of Old Black. While much of the scarlet spruce stands in the Smokies were logged during World War I, the tree is nevertheless mutual throughout the range above 5,500 feet (one,700 m). Some of the ruby-red spruce trees in the Smokies are believed to be 300 years old, and the tallest rise to over 100 feet (30 m).[29]

The main divergence betwixt the spruce-fir forests of Southern Appalachia and the spruce-fir forests in northern latitudes is the dense broad-leaved understory of the former. The spruce-fir understories of the Smokies are dwelling to catawba rhododendron, mountain ash, pin cherry, thornless blackberry, and hobblebush. The herbaceous and litter layers of the spruce-fir forests are poorly lit year-circular, and are thus dominated by shade-tolerant plants such every bit ferns, namely mount wood fern and northern lady fern, and over 280 species of mosses.[thirty]

Wildflowers [edit]

Many wildflowers grow in mountains and valleys of the Great Smokies, including bee balm, Solomon's seal, Dutchman'southward breeches, diverse trilliums, the Dragon's Advocate and even hardy orchids. There are two native species of rhododendron in the area. The Catawba rhododendron has purple flowers in May and June, while the rosebay rhododendron has longer leaves and blooms white or a light pinkish in June and July.

The orange- to sometimes red-flowered and deciduous flame azalea closely follows forth with the Catawbas. The closely related mountain laurel blooms in betwixt the 2, and all of the blooms progress from lower to higher elevations. The reverse is true in fall, when almost bare mountaintops covered in rime ice (frozen fog) can be separated from green valleys by very bright and varied leafage colors. The rhododendrons are broadleafs, whose leaves droop in social club to shed moisture and heavy snows that come through the region during winter.

Beast [edit]

A blackness bear in the Peachy Smokies

The Smashing Smoky Mountains are abode to 66 species of mammals, over 240 species of birds, 43 species of amphibians, lx species of fish, and 40 species of reptiles. The range has the densest black bear population east of the Mississippi River. The black bear has come up to symbolize wildlife in the Smokies, and the creature frequently appears on the covers of the Swell Smoky Mountains National Park's literature. About of the range's adult eastern black bears counterbalance between 100 pounds (45 kg) and 300 pounds (140 kg), although some grow to more than 500 pounds (230 kg).[31]

These elk are part of a herd which was transplanted to Cataloochee in 2001, in an attempt to reintroduce the species to the Appalachians in North Carolina

Other mammals in the Neat Smokies include the white-tailed deer, the population of which drastically expanded with the creation of the national park. The bobcat is the range's but remaining wild cat species, although sightings of cougars, which once thrived in the expanse, are still occasionally reported.[32] The coyote is not believed to be native to the range, only has moved into the area in contempo years and is treated as a native species. Wolf packs exercise not roam this region due to extirpation. They modernly reside in Alaska, portions of the Corking Lakes region, all northwestern American states and Canada.[33] Two species of fox (scarlet fox and the grayness fox) are plant within the Smokies, with red foxes existence documented at all elevations.[34]

European boar, introduced as game animals in the early on 20th century, thrive in Southern Appalachia but are considered a nuisance due to their trend to root up and destroy plants.[35] The boars are seen as taking food resource away from bears as well, and the park service has sponsored a program that pays individuals to hunt and kill boars and leave their bodies in locations frequented by bears.[36]

The Smokies are home to over two dozen species of rodents, including the endangered northern flying squirrel, and ten species of bats, including the endangered Indiana bat.[37] The National Park Service has successfully reintroduced river otters and elk into the Great Smokies. An effort to reintroduce the crimson wolf in the early 1990s ultimately failed. These wolves were removed from the park and relocated to the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge in Northward Carolina.[38]

Beck trout are native to the Great Smoky Mountains.

The Smokies are home to a various bird population due to the presence of multiple wood types. Species that thrive in southern hardwood forests, such as the crimson-eyed vireo, woods thrush, wild turkey, northern parula, cerise-throated hummingbird, and tufted titmouse, are constitute throughout the range's lower elevations and cove hardwood forests. Species more typical of libation climates, such every bit the raven, wintertime wren, black-capped chickadee, yellow-bellied sapsucker, dark-eyed junco, and Blackburnian, anecdote-sided, and Canada warblers, are found in the range's spruce-fir and northern hardwood zones.[39]

Ovenbirds, whip-poor-wills, and downy woodpeckers live in the drier pine-oak forests and heath balds.[xl] Bald eagles and gilded eagles take been spotted at all elevations in the park.[41] Peregrine falcon sightings are as well not uncommon, and a peregrine falcon eyrie is known to have existed almost Alum Cave Bluffs throughout the 1930s.[42] Red-tailed hawks, the most mutual hawk species, accept been sighted at all elevations in the range. Owl species residing in the Smokies include the barred owl, eastern screech-owl, and northern saw-whet owl.[43]

A black rat snake on a trail near Greenbriar

Timber rattlesnakes—one of two venomous snake species in the Smokies—are found at all elevations in the range. The other venomous ophidian, the copperhead, is typically found at lower elevations. Other reptiles include the eastern box turtle, the eastern fence lizard, the black rat snake, and the northern water snake.[44]

The Great Smokies are home to one of the world's nigh diverse salamander populations. V of the world's nine families of salamanders are found in the range, consisting of up to thirty-one species.[45] A type of Jordan's salamander known as the redcheeked salamander is found but in the Smokies.[46] The imitator salamander is found just in the Smokies and the nearby Plott Balsams and Neat Balsam Mountains.[47]

2 other species—the southern gray-cheeked salamander and the Southern Appalachian salamander—occur simply in the general region.[48] Other species include the shovelnose salamander, blackbelly salamander, eastern red-spotted newt, and spotted dusky salamander.[49] The legendary hellbender inhabits the range's swifter streams.[l] Other amphibians include the American toad and the American bullfrog, wood frog, upland chorus frog, northern light-green frog, and bound peeper.[51]

Fish inhabiting the streams of the Smokies include trout, lamprey, darter, shiner, bass, and sucker. The brook trout is the only trout species native to the range, although northwestern rainbow trout and European brown trout were introduced in the first half of the 20th century. The larger rainbow and brown trout outcompete the native brook trout for food and habitat at lower elevations. As such, well-nigh of the brook trout found in the park today are in streams above 3,000 feet in height. Trout in the Smokies are generally smaller than other members of their species in different locales. Protected fish species in the range include the smoky and yellowfin madtom, the spotfin chub, and the duskytail darter.[52]

The lightning-bug firefly Photinus carolinus, whose synchronized flashing light displays occur in mid-June, is native to the Smoky Mountains with a population epicenter near Elkmont, Tennessee.[53]

Ecosystem threats [edit]

Dead Fraser firs on the slopes of Old Black

Air pollution is contributing to increased Ruby-red Spruce tree mortality at college elevations and oak decline at lower elevations, while invasive hemlock woolly adelgids attack Hemlocks and balsam woolly adelgids attack Fraser firs. Pseudoscymnus tsugae, a type of beetle in the ladybug family, Coccinellidae, has been introduced in an endeavor to control the pests.[54]

Visibility now is dramatically reduced past smog from both the Southeastern Us and the Midwest, and smog forecasts are prepared daily by the Environmental Protection Bureau for both nearby Knoxville, Tennessee and Asheville, North Carolina.

Ecology threats are the concern of many non-turn a profit environmental stewardship groups, especially The Friends of the Smokies. Formed in 1993, the friends group assists the National Park Service in its mission to preserve and protect the Great Smoky Mountains National Park by raising funds and public awareness, and providing volunteers for needed projects.[55]

History [edit]

Prehistory [edit]

Native Americans have probable been hunting in the Great Smoky Mountains for fourteen,000 years. Numerous Primitive period (c. 8000–1000 B.C.) artifacts accept been found inside the national park's boundaries, including projectile points uncovered along likely animal migration paths.[56] Woodland catamenia (c. 1000 B.C. - thou A.D.) sites plant within the park independent 2000+-yr-quondam ceramics and show of primitive agriculture.[57]

The increasing reliance upon agriculture during the Mississippian period (c. 900–1600 A.D.) lured Native Americans away from the game-rich forests of the Smokies and into the fertile river valleys on the outer fringe of the range. Substantial Mississippian-period villages were uncovered at Citico and Toqua (named after the Cherokee villages that afterwards thrived at these sites) along the Little Tennessee River in the 1960s.[58] Fortified Mississippian-period villages have been excavated at the McMahan Indian Mounds in Sevierville and more recently in Townsend.[59] [sixty]

Most of these villages were office of a minor chiefdom centered on a large village known as Chiaha, which was located on an island now submerged by Douglas Lake. The 1540 expedition of Hernando de Soto and the 1567 trek of Juan Pardo passed through the French Wide River valley n of the Smokies, both spending a considerable corporeality of time at Chiaha. The Pardo expedition followed a trail beyond the flanks of Chilhowee Mount to the Mississippian-menses villages at Chilhowee and Citico (Pardo'south notary chosen them by their Muskogean names, "Chalahume" and "Satapo").[61]

The Cherokee [edit]

Past the fourth dimension the showtime English language explorers arrived in Southern Appalachia in the late 17th century, the Cherokee controlled much of the region, and the Great Smoky Mountains lay at the heart of their territory. Ane Cherokee legend tells of a magical lake hidden deep within the range, simply inaccessible to humans.[62] Another tells of a captured Shawnee medicine man named Aganunitsi who, in commutation for his freedom, travels to the remote sections of the range in search of the Uktena.[63] The Cherokee chosen Gregory Bald Tsitsuyi ᏥᏧᏱ, or "rabbit place," and believed the mountain to be the domain of the Great Rabbit.[64] Other Cherokee identify names in the Smokies included Duniskwalgunyi ᏚᏂᏍᏆᎫᏂ, or "forked antlers", which referred to the Chimney Tops, and kuwahi ᎫᏩᎯ, or "mulberry identify", which referred to Clingmans Dome.[65]

Well-nigh Cherokee settlements were located in the river valleys on the outer fringe of the Slap-up Smokies range. The Smokies, along with the Unicois, provided the main bulwark dividing the Overhill Cherokee villages in modern Tennessee from the Cherokee Center towns in mod North Carolina. The Overhill town of Chilhowee was situated at the confluence of Abrams Creek and the Footling Tennessee, and the Overhill town of Tallassee was located simply a few miles upstream most modern Calderwood (both village sites are at present nether Chilhowee Lake). A string of Overhill villages, including Chota and Tanasi, dotted the Little Tennessee valley north of Chilhowee.[66]

The Cherokee Heart towns included the hamlet of Kittowa (which the Cherokee believed to be their oldest hamlet) along the Tuckasegee River near Bryson City. The village of Oconaluftee, which was situated along the Oconaluftee River almost the modernistic Oconaluftee Visitor Middle, was the only known permanent Cherokee village located within the national park's boundaries. Sporadic or seasonal settlements were located in Cades Cove and the Hazel Creek valley.[67]

European settlement [edit]

Communities past and present of the Cracking Smoky Mountains. The green areas announce the modern national park.

European explorers and settlers began arriving in Western Due north Carolina and East Tennessee in the mid-18th century. The influx of settlers at the end of the French and Indian State of war brought conflict with the Cherokee, who however held legal title to much of the land. When the Cherokee aligned themselves with the British at the outbreak of the American Revolution in 1776, American forces launched an invasion of Cherokee territory.[68]

The Center towns, including Kittuwa, were burned past General Griffith Rutherford, and several of the Overhill towns were burned past John Sevier. By 1805, the Cherokee had ceded control of the Smashing Smokies to the U.S. regime. Although much of the tribe was forced west along the Trail of Tears in 1838, a few—largely through the efforts of William Holland Thomas—managed to retain their land on the Qualla Boundary and today comprise the Eastern Ring of Cherokee Indians.[68]

In the 1780s, several frontier outposts had been established forth the outskirts of the Smokies, namely Whitson's Fort in what is now Cosby and Wear's Fort in what is now Pigeon Forge. Permanent settlers began arriving in these areas in the 1790s. In 1801, the Whaley brothers, William and John, moved from Due north Carolina to become the get-go settlers in what is now the Greenbrier department of the park.[69]

In 1802, Edgefield, South Carolina resident William Ogle (1751–1803) arrived in White Oak Flats where he cut and prepared logs for cabin construction. Although Ogle died presently afterward returning to Edgefield, his wife, Martha Jane Huskey, somewhen returned with her family unit and several other families to White Oak Flats, condign the first permanent settlers in what would eventually become Gatlinburg. Their children and grandchildren spread out southward into the Sugarlands and Roaring Fork areas.[70]

Cades Cove was settled largely by families who had purchased lots from land speculator William "Fighting Billy" Tipton. The starting time of these settlers, John and Lucretia Oliver, arrived in 1818.[71] Two Cades Cove settlers, Moses and Patience Proctor, crossed over to the North Carolina side of the Smokies in 1836 to become the get-go Euro-American settlers in the Hazel Creek expanse.[72] The Cataloochee area was first settled by the Caldwell family, who migrated to the valley in 1834.[73]

Like most of Southern Appalachia, the early 19th-century economy of the Smokies relied on subsistence agronomics. The average subcontract consisted of roughly 50 acres (0.20 km2), part of which was cultivated and part of which was woodland. Early settlers lived in sixteen feet (four.nine m) x 20 feet (6.1 m) log cabins, although these were replaced by more elaborate log houses and somewhen, equally lumber became bachelor, by modern frame houses. Most farms included at to the lowest degree one barn, a springhouse (used for refrigeration), a smokehouse (used for curing meat), a chicken coop (protected chickens from predators), and a corn crib (kept corn dry and protected it from rodents). Some of the more industrious farmers operated gristmills, general stores, and sorghum presses.[74] Religion was a central theme in the lives of the early residents of the Smokies, and customs life was typically centered on churches. Christian Protestantism—especially Primitive Baptists, Missionary Baptists, Methodists, and Presbyterians; dominated the religious civilization of the region.

American Civil War [edit]

While both Tennessee and North Carolina joined the Confederacy at the outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861, Union sentiment in the Great Smoky Mountains was much stronger relative to other regions in these two states. Generally, the communities on the Tennessee side of the Smokies supported the Union, while communities on the Northward Carolina side supported the Confederates. On the Tennessee side, 74% of Cocke Countians, eighty% of Blount Countians, and 96% of Sevier Countians voted against secession.[75] In the North Carolina Smokies—Cherokee, Haywood, Jackson, and Macon counties—most 46% of the population favored secession.[76]

While no major engagements took place in the Smokies, minor skirmishes were fairly common. Cherokee chief William Kingdom of the netherlands Thomas formed a Confederate legion made up mostly of Cherokee soldiers.[ citation needed ] Thomas' Legion crossed the Smokies in 1862 and occupied Gatlinburg for several months to protect saltpeter mines atop Mountain Le Conte. Residents of predominantly Union Cades Cove and predominantly Confederate Hazel Creek routinely crossed the mountains to steal 1 some other's livestock.[77] Residents of Cosby and Cataloochee did likewise. 1 notable Civil War incident in the Smokies was the murder of long-fourth dimension Cades Cove resident Russell Gregory (for whom Gregory Baldheaded is named), which was carried out by bushwhackers in 1864 shortly afterward Gregory had led an ambush that routed a band of Confederates seeking to wreak havoc in the cove.[78] Another incident was George Kirk's raid on Cataloochee, in which Kirk killed or wounded 15 Union soldiers recovering at a makeshift hospital.[79]

Logging [edit]

While selective logging occurred in the Groovy Smoky Mountains throughout the 19th century, the full general inaccessibility of the range's forests prevented major logging operations, and lumber firms relied on the lowland forests in the northeastern United States and the Mississippi Delta in the southeast. As timber resources in these regions became exhausted, and as the need for lumber skyrocketed after the Civil War, entrepreneurs began looking for means to attain the virgin forests of Southern Appalachia. The beginning logging operations in the Smokies, which began in the 1880s, used splash dams or booms to float logs downwards rivers to lumber mills in nearby cities. Notable splash dam and boom operations included the English language Lumber Visitor on Little River, the Taylor and Crate operations along Hazel Creek, and the ambitious operations of Alexander Arthur on the Pigeon River. All three of these operations failed within their offset few years, however, after their dams and nail systems were destroyed by floods.[lxxx] [81] [82]

Innovations in logging railroads and band saw applied science in the late 19th century fabricated large-scale logging possible in the mountainous areas of Southern Appalachia. The largest logging operation in the Smokies was the Piffling River Lumber Visitor, which logged the Little River watershed between 1901 and 1939. The company as well established company towns at Townsend (named for the visitor's chief owner and manager, Wilson B. Townsend), Elkmont, and Tremont.[83]

The second-largest operation was the Ritter Lumber Company, which logged the Hazel Creek watershed between 1907 and 1928. Ruins of Ritter'due south lumbering operations are still visible along the Hazel Creek Trail.[84] Other lumbering operations included Three M Lumber and Champion Fibre, both of which logged the Oconaluftee watershed.[85] By the time all operations ceased in the 1930s, logging firms had removed two-thirds of the virgin forests of the Smokies.[ citation needed ]

The National Park [edit]

Wilson B. Townsend, the head of Fiddling River Lumber, began advertising Elkmont every bit a tourist destination in 1909. Within a few years, the Wonderland Hotel and the Appalachian Club had been established to cater to elite Knoxvillians seeking summer mountain getaways.[86] In the early 1920s, several Appalachian Society members, among them Knoxville businessman Colonel David Chapman, began seriously because a movement to found a national park in the Bully Smokies. Equally caput of the Great Smoky Mountains Park Commission, Chapman was largely responsible for raising funds for land purchases and coordinating park efforts between local, country, and federal entities.[87]

The creation of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park proved much more than circuitous than the creation of its predecessors, such every bit Yellowstone and Yosemite, which were already federally owned. Forth with convincing logging firms to sell lucrative lumber rights, the Park Committee had to negotiate the purchase of thousands of pocket-size farms and remove entire communities. The commission also had to deal with the Tennessee and Northward Carolina legislatures, which at times were opposed to spending taxpayer money on park efforts.[88] In spite of these difficulties, the Park Commission had completed most major land purchases by 1932. The national park officially opened in 1934, with President Franklin D. Roosevelt presiding over the opening ceremony at Newfound Gap.

Culture and tourism [edit]

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park in fall

The culture of the surface area is that of Southern Appalachia, and previously the Cherokee people. Tourism is key to the area's economy, particularly in cities similar Dove Forge and Gatlinburg in Tennessee,[89] and Cherokee, North Carolina. In 2006, the Great Smoky Mountains Heritage Middle opened in Townsend, Tennessee, with the mission of preserving various aspects of the region's civilisation.[ commendation needed ]

The Tennessee Smokies baseball team plays in Sevierville, Tennessee and is named for the mountain range.

The Great Smoky Mountains are also home to The Gatlinburg SkyLift and SkyBridge.[90]

References [edit]

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External links [edit]

  • Official website
  • Species Mapper
  • Great Smoky Mountains Association—official nonprofit partner of the park, maps, guides, photos, and videos
  • National Weather Service Southern Appalachian Precipitation study (NWS Morristown, TN)
  • Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont
  • Cornell University study on invasive balsam woolly adelgid control
  • Geologic Map of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park Region, Tennessee and North Carolina United States Geological Survey
  • History and maps
  • The Great Smoky Mountains Regional Project—a collection of documents and early photographs regarding the Bully Smokies and surrounding communities
  • Southern Appalachian English: Transcripts—audio file samples of interviews of long-time residents of the Great Smokies conducted in 1939
  • Smokies Road Trip, circa 1938

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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Smoky_Mountains

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